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First Year Vine Training
From Carolyn Harris - Chuparosa Vineyards
23 May 2007
Here are my guidelines (and a question) for developing first year vines in the Ramona area, based on my recent experience with an acre of Zinfandel planted from dormant bench grafted bare root vines in April 2004. Note that these guidelines are somewhat unique for our area. In much of the existing literature based on other grape growing regions it will take two or three years for the vines to be large and strong enough for training onto a trellis. In Ramona, it is not uncommon for many dormant bench grafted vines to develop not only the main trunk, but full length cordons. as well, in the first season.
For a bi-lateral cordon style of vine structure:
Once the shoot(s) peek(s) up out of the top of the grow tube select the strongest straightest shoot and tie it loosely to the stake. Remove all other shoots and any developing grape clusters.
What I heard Ben Drake say to the Ramona Valley Vineyard Association last night is that he lets the selected shoot grow approx. 18 inches beyond the cordon wire, and when it is at least a pencil-width thick, cut it off approx. 3 to 4 inches below the cordon wire.The remaining top two buds will develop into the cordons. I like to cut the cane at the cordon wire itself, tying thetop couple of inches of the caneto the bamboo stake above the new arms
Once the two cordons start to develop, take care not to tie them onto the cordon wire too early. They don't grow as rapidly horizontally as they will grow vertically. Also, I've snapped off a full cordon at the trunk by bending it down too early when it is fresh and green. If your first set of catch wires have been installed you might want to loosely tie the cordon to the wire to prevent it from being snapped off in a wind gust.
Check inside the grow tube during the summer and remove any weeds, lateral shoots and grape clusters that have formed, leaving the leaves.
Later into the season, once the cordon becomes so long that it may bend down where a rabbit can eat it, or a wind gust snap it,you can safely either (1)tie it gently down straight on the wire or (2) wrap it no more than one to one and a half times around the cordon wire and tie it down with green tape.
If the cordon continues to grow past the intended length, the question then becomes whether it should be cut off at that point, or left to grow out the first year, reserving the cut for the first dormant pruning. If I leave it alone, it will grow into the adjacent vine and get tangled up. If I cut it at the midpoint (leaving approx 4 to 6 inches between cordon ends) during the growing season, it will stimulate late season laterals to develop at the future spur locations, and then I'm not sure how to treat these stumps during dormant pruning (cut them flush with the cordon, or leave them as a spur?) All educated opinions on this question are welcome.
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From Joe Cullen - Cactus Star Vineyard
23 May 2007
I would cut just below cordon and I would leave 4 branches grow. That way if one or two break off (say due to a Santa Anna...or in your efforts to position them) you'll still have hopefully two left. If all 4 make it, then cut the two weaker ones next year. But I don't think your vines would be ready for this until July or so. I always let my stalks get to pencil size plus at the cordon before I cut. Say @12mm or so (little less then 1/2'').
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From Joe Cullen - Cactus Star Vineyard
23 May 2007
I would cut just below cordon and I would leave 4 branches grow. That way if one or two break off (say due to a Santa Anna...or in your efforts to position them) you'll still have hopefully two left. If all 4 make it, then cut the two weaker ones next year. But I don't think your vines would be ready for this until July or so. I always let my stalks get to pencil size plus at the cordon before I cut. Say @12mm or so (little less then 1/2'').
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, Jul 14 2007, 12:17 PM EDT
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